How to use a digging bar to transplant a tree

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Wonkee’s hoof-by-hoof guide: How to remove a tree or shrub for replanting

A rushed transplant will almost always result in failure.

Between Nov and Feb a year before the transplant:

Step 1 – Dig trench

Dig a trench around the base of the tree, about parallel with the edge of the branches.

Step 2 – Fill trench with sand

On the same day, fill the trench with a coarse sand. This will encourage particularly fibrous root growth, which will help the plant to re-establish itself when replanted.

Step 3 – Prune branches

Prune back any aged or sickly branches – this will encourage new growth in Spring. Younger, greener plant material is more likely to survive replanting than older wood. Be careful not to over-prune; some trimming will encourage new growth, but too much can make it difficult for a plant to cope with a move.

The day before the transplant:

Step 1 – Water soil

Water the soil well throughout the day.

Step 2 – Prepare transplant location

Prepare the spot the plant will be moved to.

The day of the transplant:

Step 1 – Dig around base of tree

Dig carefully around the base of the tree to determine root spread – this should extend about as far as the edge of the branches, but may be longer or shorter on some specimens. It’s important to save as much of the root as possible.

Step 2 – Restrain branches

To decrease damage during transplant, carefully restrain the branches by tying them off with a soft rope or non-adhesive tape.

Step 3 – Sever restrictive roots

Using the chisel edge of your bar, carefully and cleanly sever any roots which are too thick or long to be saved, or which are a stabilising element of another garden feature, such as a fence. The cleaner the cut to a root or branch, the easier it will be for your plant to heal.

Step 4 – Lift root ball

Using the pointed end of your bar, or the flat of your chisel edge if you are using a post-hole digging bar, gently lever the plant up from beneath the root ball, preserving as much of it as possible.

Step 5 – Keep moist

When the tree is free, place it on a piece of damp sacking, keeping the roots covered to prevent drying. Remember, roots spend their whole natural lives below the ground, so exposure to wind and sun can quickly become detrimental.

Step 6 – Keep moist (contd)

Replant as soon as possible after removal. If you have to wait, pack the roots with mulch (such as compost) and keep them covered with damp sacking cloth. Make sure that they are well-watered at all times.

Step 7 – Place plant in hole

Place the plant in the new hole. Stretch the roots out, making sure that they can extend fully inside the hole. Adjust its size if necessary.

Step 8 – Cover roots

Cover the roots, using the height of the soil mark on the stem or trunk to determine the depth the plant should be buried at. Burying too much of the plant will kill it, as will leaving any of the roots exposed; take your time and make sure.

Step 9 – Tamp soil

Using the tamper head of your bar, gently compact the earth around the base of your plant to eliminate any air pockets beneath the soil.

Step 10 – Secure stem

If your plant is particularly large or weak-stemmed, use a stake or guy to keep it upright until the roots are re-established – this will prevent wind-rock (which can damage the roots, and allow water to collect in the ‘socket’ around the base of the tree, leading to rot.)

For a year after planting:

Step 1 – Keep well-watered

Keep the plant well-watered during dry spells.

Step 2 – Maintain thick mulch

Maintain a thick mulch of organic matter, such as compost, around the roots – but don’t leave any touching the base of the plant, as this can rot the wood.

Step 3 – Fertilise

In spring, apply fertiliser to aid regrowth.